Eighties Fashion

10. Which Knitwear label did Stevie Stewart and David Holah found? And what was so special about their fashion shows?

Bodymap was the name of the knitwear label created by Stevie Stewart and David Holah, in 1982. They later went on to design womens and menswear, swimwear and even kids clothing. Their collections were famous for their bizarre names, including ‘Barbie Takes a Trip’ and ‘The Cat in The Hat Takes a Rumble With The Techno Fish’. Renowed for bold prints and assymetrical layers, Bodymap was a young and wildly creative. The label is still going strong today, and have recently dressed the likes of Britney Spears and Girls Aloud. 

Bodymap’s catwalk shows were always an extravagant performance rather than just a display of garments. The would often use dancers and celebrities, gliding and prancing down the catwalks rather than just walking. The shows were about walking art and attitude. Leigh Bowerey featured in one of their shows. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RR9KCuSF_Y8

9. Which designer said, ‘I work in three shades of black’?

Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo is the founder of COMME des GARCONS, she became famous in the 1980s for her ‘anti-fashion’ garments. She worked in mainly black, grey and white, and often made holes and frayed her garments. ‘Hiroshima Chic’ was the term used by journalists at the time to describe her designs. Kawakubo famously said ‘I work in three shades of black’.

8. Who designed costumes for the film American Gigolo?

Giorgio Armani famously dressed Richard Gere’s character in blockbuster American Gigolo in 1980. Julian dances around in just his boxer shorts, whilst pulling out various Armani jackets, shirts and ties from his wardrobe. He showed a man which was proud of his appearance, and could be meterosexual but masculine. Precision cutting, smart jackets and suave personality. Armani represented the modern day man perfectly.

7. What was the name of Katharine Hamnett’s 1983-1984 collection of logo t-shirts?

The original green queen, Katharine Hamnett, became hugely famous for her over-sized t-shirts in the 80s. Baring slogans such as CHOOSE LIFE, WORLDWIDE NUCLEAR BAN NOW, PRESERVE THE RAINFORESTS, SAVE THE WORLD, SAVE THE WHALES, EDUCATION NOT MISSILES. These t-shirts were designed to be copied, Katharine Hamnett’s aim was to spread the word. She rocketed to fame with her collection ‘Think Global.’ Her t-shirts became popular with many celebrities such as Wham, Cindy Lauper and more recently, Lily Cole. Aside from these tops, she designs womenswear and menswear. She is thought to be one of the most copied designers.

6. Who was Keith Haring?

Keith Haring was a social activist and artist, born in 1958 in the USA. Famous for his ‘radiant baby’ symbol, he drew images in bold lines and colours which raised awareness of issues in the 80s. He visited countries such as Australia and Brazil and painted murals, aswell as famously painting Grace Jones and designing a jacket for Madonna. Haring opened a retail store named Pop Shop, selling merchandise baring these iconic images. He dedicated most of his life to public work, producing artwork in numerous cities, which carried messages. A famous piece bared the phrase ‘CRACK IS WACK’ following the crack-cocaine epidemic. Haring became well known in several countries for his artwork before being diagnosed with AIDS in 1988. He started the Keith Haring Foundation shortly after, supporting other AIDS victims. He sadly died in 1990. 

5. Which designers showed hip hop inspired collections in the eighties?

During the 80s hip hop was represented in two stereotypes. Some people were influenced by African American styles, like popular band RUN DMC. This look consisted of leather bomber jackets, brightly coloured t-shirts and sneakers, baggy trousers and heavy gold jewelry. Will Smith’s character in ‘Fresh Prince of Belair’ showed an example of 80s hip hop fashion, with tye dyed tshirts and baggy trousers.

Others wore heavy sportswear, polo tops, trackuit bottoms, jeans and trainers. Brands such as Adidas, Sergio Tachinni, Le Coq Sportif and Filas became very popular. Fashion was influenced heavily by music in this decade. 

Designer Isaac Mizrahi was heavily influenced by hip hop in the late 80s. His models wore black catsuits, gold nameplate belts, and bomber jackets with fur-trimmed hoods. ‘Homeboy Chic’ was the term used to describe his collection by Womenswear Daily. This influence progressed into the early 90s, when Chanel featured hip-hop inspired fashion in a number of shows.

4. Who was Leigh Bowery?

Leigh Bowery was an Australian-born performance artist, fashion designer and club promoter. He was one of the most famous exhibitionists of the 80s after moving to the UK in 1980. He was extremely daring when performing and this showed in his costumes and make up. Some would describe him as ‘art on legs’. Designers such as Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen and John Galliano were highly influenced by Bowerey, and some continue to be today. Bowerey died at the young age of 33, but continues to influence icons such as Boy George, Scissor Sisters and David LaChappelle today.

3. When was Karl Lagerfeld appointed design director at Chanel?

In 1983 Karl Lagerfeld was appointed the position of design director at fashion power house Chanel. He had already designed for French brand Chloe, and resumed in 1984. He currently designs for his own label and furs for Fendi, aswell as Chanel. Lagerfeld’s Fall 2010 collection for Chanel featured ‘fantasy fur’ in a variety of shades. 

2. Style commentator, Peter York, coined the phrases YUPPIE and Sloane Ranger. What do they mean?

-The term ‘YUPPIE’ was coined in the 80s by Peter York, standing for ‘Young, Urban, Professional.’ This nickname is still used to describe young affluient men and women who are often city workers, with a very high disposable income and have the tendency to flaunt their wealth. They are known for wearing brands such as Prada and Gucci. Could be associated with a ‘Gordon Gekko” type character that Michael Douglas played in ‘Wall Street’. 

-‘Sloane Ranger’ refers to young middle/upper class men and women, who enjoy the same lifestyles and partake in activites such as country sports. Sloanes typically live around the Chelsea, Fulham and Kensington areas and are expected to attend high status London Universities. They can be sen wearing Ralph Lauren polo shirts, jumpers and Hunter wellington boots. Brands Hollister, Abercrombie and Ugg are popular with young generation Sloanes.

1. Three style magazines were launched in 1980. Can you name them? 

- ‘The Face’ was released in May 1980, under Wagadon publishing house. Nick Logan was the editor, and the magazine soon became a ‘fashion bible’ for youths in the 80s. Wagadon sold the magazine to EMAP in 1999 and it later closed in May 2004 due to fierce competition. Spin off magazine ‘Pop’ still stands today. Covers include Nicholas Cage, Patsy Kensit, P Diddy, Uma Thurman, Yasmin Le Bon and Winona Ryder.

-‘Blitz’ was released in 1980 also, and published until 1991. A monthly media and popular culture magazine, this publication took the lead for many lads mags to follow in the nineties. Iain R Webb and Nick Knight were among the talent writers and photographers who contributed to the magazine over the years. Covers include Jack Nicholson, Wham, Boy George, Madonna and Mel Gibson. 

-‘i-D’ was founded by former Vogue art director Terry Jones in 1980. It epitomises fashion, music, art and youth culture. Famous for its innovative photogrpahy and typography. Turned upside down the i-D logo is a winking face, and each issue features a winking model, usually on the front cover. This is the only style magazine released in the 80s that is still standing. Cover include Agyness Dean, Leona Lewis, Lady Gaga, Shakira, Lilly Allen and Lily Cole.